Indigo spent quite a long time here, much longer than expected, due largely to the ponderous and corrupt local customs process. Parts we had ordered were simply held at ransom. The logjam was broken only when I happened to meet and befriend a local real estate developer whose good friend ran the customs department. One phone call was all it took. […]
After at last departing Casa de Campo, with a touch of regret, we traveled the short distance across the rough Mona Passage to San Juan, Puerto Rico to take on a load of fuel and stay the night. The marina manager cautioned us not to venture into the streets as elections were that day and rioting was expected.
After leaving San Juan, we made for the British Virgin Islands under clear skies and smooth seas, arriving at Soper’s Hole, a former pirate hangout Tortola. From there we cruised the Sir Francis Drake channel between Tortola and Virgin Gorda and dropped anchor for the night at the Bitter End Yacht Club. […]
The sparkling gem that is the island of Anguilla will turn out to be my favorite place in the Caribbean chain. Were it not for the unfortunate fact that it’s located dead center in hurricane alley, with results both predictable and dire, the island would be an ideal paradise. Its beaches line the western shore and are as pure and white and lovely as any beaches could ever be. Not surprisingly, the place is home to two 5-star resort hotels. […]
Just a few miles across the water from Anguilla is the schizophrenic island of St. Martin⁄St. Maarten. About two thirds of the place, a départment of France, is crowded, traffic choked and badly in need of a paint job. It does, however, have a whole lot of fine restaurants. The other third is Dutch and also crowded with people and cars but with the added blight of glitzy casinos. […]
From St. Martin, we travel the short distance to St. Barths and tie up right in the middle of town, something that would have been impossible were we in the high season. Having been to this island in the past and having no pressing need for French products of any type, I have dinner at Maya’s then hang around the waterfront until time to leave next day.
If there is an island in the Caribbean that can be said to be obviously British, Antigua (pronounced anteega) is it. It is the site of a former Royal Navy base dating from the early 1800s, with wharves, warehouses, barracks and the like still there now turned to tourist attractions. Its fine harbor is lined with bars and restaurants mostly empty this time of year, as though everybody is waiting for the first hurricane to strike.
Just off the south end of the French island of Guadeloupe lies a small archipelago that serves as the resort for visitors from the larger island and others nearby. One of these, Isle de Saints, is our choice for the next stop. It has a fine protected anchorage, which as we arrive is filled with boats just starting a holiday regatta. […]
In stark contrast to the overly touristy, well developed island of Guadeloupe and its sister group including Isle de Saints stands the island of Dominica. Volcanic and mountainous, as are nearly all the Caribbean islands, it is an ecological wonderland that from afar brings to mind the setting of Jurassic Park. And the closer you get the more apt the association becomes. […]
We then made uneventful stops at Martinique and St. Lucia. At St. Lucia, in a waterfront tourist bar, all of us were nearly poisoned to death by rum drinks made from some god-awful concoction of witches brew. The next day the entire contingent on board was ill from the effects. Enough to make you give up drinking altogether, almost.