Travel with Indigo

Off the rocky shores of this jagged coastline is the large island of Korcula, a cluster of smaller ones, including pastoral Mljet, half of which is a pristine national park, and the mountainous Peljesac Peninsula. The area produces some of Croatia’s finest wines, both red and white, which we were pleased to sample generously and add to our stores, and serves up notable seafood.

Korcula’s old town, where we tied up to the quay for a night, is tiny by comparison to others in the region but popular as a summer resort. A new hotel of six rooms or so has just opened there and its owner insisted that I see it. After now having visited hotels in old towns all over the Med, I can say that they have much in common. Because they must accommodate themselves to the medieval structure, the rooms are small by modern standards, have low ceilings and little ambient light due to tiny window openings if they have any at all. Interior walls are nearly always the unfinished, rough surfaces of the exterior walls. While modern appointments and plumbing vary, there is the inescapable sense of occupying a cave. Claustrophobics will find them unappealing.