Florianopolis–Phil and his buddies–Sunday – Sep 17, 2006
John Pollok arrives this morning from Recife, Brazil to join me until September 27. He recently retired as a chief of the Federal Police, speaks great English, and is a genuinely fine man with fascinating stories to tell of his government service. He spent three years living among the Amazon Indian tribes that inhabit the dense rain forests there in an attempt to help preserve their culture and keep modern depredations at bay.
Knowing the big party is looming tonight, we nevertheless decide to take advantage of a day of brilliant sunshine and clear skies and do a day cruise to a nearby cove. On the way, we spot a humpback whale lolling about on the surface. Backed by sloping hills with colorful homes and shops along its waterfront, the cove easily resembles a coastal town in Italy. Ashore, Jorges arranges for a van to take us on a scenic tour over the hilltops looking down into movre coves finally arriving at a small local cafe, where we dine well on fresh fish, mussels, veggies, rice and cold beer. Then it’s back to indigo for a wonderful sunny return to our anchorage in Floripa.
Jorges Barbosa and I met in Salvador, way back up the line, when the crew ordered up an English-speaking taxi driver. The first driver failed to show, and so we called on Jorges, an accidental but fortunate meeting. Aged 42 with a wife and small child, Jorge conducts tours for English speakers in Salvador. He’s also a professional masseuse, plays the conga drums, and organizes events for his customers. He may also be the most naturally gifted stand-up comedian in Brazil. In addition to arranging for transportation, choosing restaurants and the food orders, Jorges keeps us all in stitches from the first sight of him in the morning to his late departures. it is Jorges who arranges my 61st birthday party.
He selects a fine beachfront restaurant in a chic area of town not far from where Indigo is anchored and so convenient. He then arranges for a local firm to handle all the party decorations, hires a great Brazilian combo, orders up all the necessary food, and hires a bartender. The party could not have happened as it did without Jorges. If you find yourself headed to Brazil, no matter what part or city, you’d be well-advised to recruit Jorges to your service.
Starting about 8PM, the party is a little slow getting going, but then catches fire. By late night, the place is wild (at least by my 61 year old standards), perhaps aided by generous doses of cachaca, the local firewater. Toby and Geraldine, our captain and chef, arrive along with the new stewardess, Sahori, dressed in her traditional summer kimono looking fantastic. The kimono was hand-stitched by her grandmother and is a treasured item. The three amigos warm to the occasion, with Earl in especially fine form. John Rood is having the time of his life, thankful to be away from the demands of his job in Nassau. He flew here especially to join in the fun and blends in easily with crew and amigos. John Pollok is here and has a terrific time and generously devotes time to interpreting for all of us. Oswald and his wife, along with several other couples we had met recently, join in the fun.
The combo is terrific, featuring a lead singer who also plays tenor and alto sax, a guy playing an assortment of conga drums, and the singer’s father on keyboards. The music is a rich blend of bossa nova, samba and other traditional Brazilian music, along with some American old favorites. Not one song has a rock beat or even a syncopated rhythm but nobody misses that. We all get back to the boat later that night–a little out of balance and exhausted.